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Name Plate Mounting Tips - By Mike
While I've been an engraver for more than 25 years, that's not ALL my life's experience. I've also worked as a cabinetmaker and spent a number of years in antique furniture renovation; 1st as an apprentice to my dad, and later operating my own shop.
Many engravers consider their responsibility ended when they ship your order. I don't look at it that way. For a number of our customers, mounting their name tag is a new experience. So my intention with this page is to share what I've learned. There are lots of ways to do most anything, and my tips below aren't the only way nameplate mounting can be done - maybe not even the best way. But when I mount a name tag, this is what I do. I hope it helps.
Haven't yet decided just which nameplate is right for you?
Go to Choosing your Name Plate
Mounting a Name Plate with Screws
Let me say first that you DON'T want to try and muscle the screw in. They won't go in straight for you, and you risk the very real possibility of mounting the plate crooked, stripping the screw slot, or having the screwdriver slip to the detriment of your plate, your mount, or both.
So I recommend that you do what the cabinet companies do; pre-drill the hole. A 1/16" drill bit is the one you want. This is slightly smaller than the shaft of our screws. First you put the adhesive strip included with your order on the plate, and then stick your plate where it goes on the mount. Next you'll want to take an ice pick or nail (anything with a point) and make an indention in your mount in the middle of the name plate mounting hole. This indention gives the drill bit a place to start and prevents it rattling around in the punched hole.
You'll want to drill aprox 2/3" the length of the screw shaft. These screws aren't supporting much weight, but you do want to bite a little new wood. So you can tell how deep to drill, hold the screw against the drill bit and then wrap a piece of masking tape on the bit at 2/3 the length of the screw shaft. Drill the hole as straight as you can. Not perfect is still OK. Drill down until the masking tape reaches the mount. If you drill too deep that's OK too, the screw will still hold the plate.
Having done that then put the screw in. The screw shaft will follow your hole and end up flush with the plate surface - which is what you want. It will take you a few min's to do this, but will be time well spent. Otherwise you'll be looking at a crooked screw for many years to come.
Mounting a Name Tag with Brads (nails)
Again, you'll want to use the adhesive strip included with your order and stick your plate on the mount. This ensures the plate mounts straight and frees both hands for the task. We have two sizes of brads - small and smaller. Both are difficult to get started by holding them your fingers. So hold them with needle nose pliers instead - pliers feel no pain. You should remember that lots of little taps are better than a few hard ones. It's possible to hit a glancing blow followed by the hammer striking the plate or mount - which isn't a great idea. For protection while you're hammering, tape a piece of cardboard (like is used for cereal boxes) on the plate while you work. The cardboard will absorb the "opps". I'm not aware of any shortcuts or tips that make this task easier. So all I'll pass on is to be sure and watch what you're doing while you're doing it, and never hurry.
Mounting a Plate with Adhesive Backing
A stick-on plate is easy to mount but hard to get straight and centered. The way to work with this is to first lay the plate on the mount WITHOUT peeling the back from the adhesive. Carefully place it where you want it and then get a piece of masking tape and stick that on your mount to mark where the top edge of the plate goes. Now peel the back from the tape and lay ONLY THE TOP EDGE on your mark. As long as only the edge is in contact, then the plate can still be picked up and repositioned. When you've got it right, slowly lower the rest of the plate. The top edge will hold it where it goes while you do this. Don't press it down until you're sure it's right. Many times you can still pick it up if you don't press - but not always. Best to assume that repositioning isn't possible and to rely on your mounting mark.
It's my hope that these tips will be of assistance to those that want it. If you know a better way I'd appreciate the information and may incorporate it on this page.
Years ago my dad was talking to a customer while he worked on a piece of furniture. His customer said, "Why are you doing that the way you are"? He then proceeded to show my dad a way that was not only easier, but more accurate. My dad's reply? "Thanks. I've been doing this wrong for 20 years".
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